On tackling ‘The Swarm’ (V13/14), controversies of female first ascents, competition burnout, and doing what she loves every day.
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Alex Johnson is a Five-Time US National Champion, Two-Time World Cup Gold Medalist and has climbed many hard boulder problems including the first female ascents of The Mystery (V12) Bishop, CA; Diaphanous Sea (V12) Hueco Tanks, Tx; Book of Nightmares (V12) Red Rocks, NV; Drive On (V11) Yosemite, Ca; and many more. In her whirlwind career, Alex Johnson has dominated competitions, faced competition burnout, recovered from depression, and rediscovered her love for climbing on the rocks. Alex Johnson takes time in this interview to share her insights and tell her stories.
Show Notes for Alex Johnson:
- Putting on a good show for events
- The beta on climbing in Red Rocks, Las Vegas, Nevada
- Last year’s attempts at taking down The Swarm (V13/14)
- How she’s training and preparing to attack The Swarm this coming season
- The Mandala controversy and culture of downgrading after female ascents
- Why first female ascents hold weight for Alex
- On pint-sized crushers and allowing them to compete in adult categories
- Her competitive career and burning out
Related Links and Sponsors for the episode with Alex Johnson:
- “AJ On The Rocks” Alex Johnson’ Blogspot page
- “Unbroken: The Alex Johnson Profile” from Rock and Ice Magazine
- TheNorthFace: Alex Johnson
- Goal Zero
More sponsors: Pro-Tec Athletics, Smith Optics, Nicros Climbing Wall Systems, Organic, J-Tree Skincare, Gnarly Nutrition
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