Dustin Sabo at the CrossroadsOn the glory days of Bishop, developing in and around the Sierras, and how climbing has changed with age…

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Dustin Sabo is a good friend of mine. He basically taught me everything I know about climbing and routesetting. His efforts, however, extend far beyond what he has done for me alone. Dustin was a part of the growth of bouldering in Bishop, Ca in the mid ’90s. During this time he nabbed the first ascent of many Bishop classics including Acid Wash (V10), Enter the Dragon (V10), Moon Raker (V9), and a handful of others. Dustin was also key in the development of Tahoe bouldering. Along with friends such as Brian Sweeney (Episode 3) and Ty Fairbairn, Dustin helped open up popular northern California destinations such as Castle Peak, The Sierra Buttes, and South Lake Tahoe. He has also set for ABS youth nationals and currently is the head routesetter and head coach at High Altitude Fitness located in Incline Village, Lake Tahoe, NV.

*Also, just a little disclosure, this episode is explicit! It may not be suitable for impressionable minors who will be inspired to run away to far-off distant bouldering lands and listen to punk rock, drink, and send FA’s. There may have been a little wine involved in the recording of this episode. It’s a little rambly. I hope you enjoy it.*

Show Notes for the episode with Dustin Sabo:

  • How Dustin got into climbing
  • Growing up in the era of Sierra sport climbing
  • Learning from the likes of Dan Osman
  • The growth of bouldering in the Bishop area
  • First Ascent rivalries and the gentleman’s clause that solved it
  • The Advent of highballs and how it has changed the landscape of bouldering in Bishop
  • The Legend of ‘Enter the Dragon’ (V10)
  • Being a steward of climbing areas when there are so many people accessing them
  • Developing Castle Peak, Tahoe, and the Sierra Buttes
  • The responsibility of development
  • How climbing has changed for him as he gets older

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For Dustin’s send of ‘Space Odyssey’ (V9) skip to 4:28

I couldn’t find video of Dustin’s send of ‘Dark Matter’ (V12), but here’s Griffin Whiteside (mentioned in episode). Skip to 2:15 for ‘Dark Matter’

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