Justen Sjong Episode Art

On breathing into balance, relaxing, and what it takes to break down personal barriers.

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Justen Sjong has been training top level climbers for over 20 years. This time as a coach, both for his clients and himself has given him vast insight into what it takes to push climbers of all skill sets to the limit. Justen and his partner Kris Peters began Team of 2, a training and coaching company not long ago and have since trained some of the top athletes in climbing. They have trained climbers such as, Emily Harrington, Daniel Woods, Alex Johnson, and more. Though they have the tools to train these top level athletes, many of their clients are beginners and driven weekend warriors who also want to seek improvement.

In this episode, Justen and I talk about the mistakes that most climbers make when training, how far to push it and what causes injury, and his assessments of technique and how the average climber can assess themselves. Justen and Kris are always available for contact and ready to help climbers improve their performance. Just check out the links below.

Show Notes with Justen Sjong:

  • How he evaluates the weaknesses in a clients technique.
  • Analyzing the four categories of strong technical assessment: Balance, Thought, Movement, Rate of Use.
  • The importance of breath on the wall.
  • How, even if you don’t live in Boulder, you can benefit from Team of 2’s insight and programs.
  • How even the high-end, professional athletes can find value in having a trainer and coach.
  • How to move from ‘maintenance days’ to actual training days.
  • What it really takes to achieve your goals.
  • What’s the line between pushing yourself to the limit and risking injury?
  • The biggest mistakes climbers make while training and how to combat them.
  • The importance of goals.
  • How to assess yourself when training alone.

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